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From winding roads to volcanic vintages, our Sicilian adventure was a feast for the senses. This sun-drenched island at the toe of Italy’s boot captivated us with its contrasts – ancient ruins cloaked in modern grit, rugged coastlines giving way to sweeping vineyards, and a culinary heritage as bold as the very volcanoes that shape the land.
Our Sicilian exploration began with an “upgrade” to an SUV rental – a mixed blessing on the island’s narrow, twisting village lanes. As one local guide quipped with a smirk, “There are no rules” when driving here. We quickly learned to embrace the organized chaos, asserting our place in Sicily’s self-centered driving universe. Our itinerary took us from the eastern city of Catania along the fertile slopes of Mount Etna, Europe’s most active volcano. With our four-wheeled steed, we could freely veer from the tourist trail to uncover the island’s viticultural gems.
The vineyards draped along Mount Etna’s formidable flanks produce wines of uncommon terroir. At Palmento Costanzo, gnarly old vines were trained in the ancient Greek albarello style on stubby “living stakes.” Their pre-phylloxera rootstocks, spared by Etna’s sandy volcanic soils, yield grapes with a storied pedigree.
At Nicosia, a more modern yet artisanal approach ruled. After tasting their stellar volcanic wines, the true showstopper arrived – a decadent spread of local charcuterie, cheeses, fruits, and breads that could sate an army. This was la dolce vita at its finest. When not indulging in Mt. Etna’s finest wines, we sampled Sicily’s coastal cuisine. Simple but sublime, our meals showcased the region’s bounty from air, land, and sea. We reveled in pistachio-studded delicacies, briny seafood fresh from the Mediterranean, and crisp fruity wines from Etna’s lava-enriched soils.
Aci Castello
In seaside Aci Castello, we marveled at the rocks beneath an imposing medieval fortification. Nearby Aci Trezza’s so-called “Cyclops Rocks” evoked Homeric legends. One humble trattoria in the hills served up a feast so authentic, the proprietor gently scolded us for not devouring every last morsel of her “forest cheese” – a unique, honey-laced cheese from the lush slopes of Etna. Even our jet-lagged late-night pizza delivery ranked among the best I’ve ever tasted, the blistered wood-fired crusts beckoning another slice.
We meandered through the cobblestone pathways and charming squares of the hilltop town of Taormina (top), we were transported to a bygone era filled with history and culture. From exploring the ancient Greek amphitheater offering panoramic vistas of Mount Etna to browsing the quaint local shops brimming with artisanal treasures, each moment was a discovery of Taormina’s captivating past. The tour not only provided a glimpse into the town’s rich heritage but also allowed us to savor authentic Sicilian cannoli and marvel at the architectural wonders that dotted our path. As we traced the footsteps of generations past, our walking tour of Taormina left an indelible mark, weaving together moments of awe and admiration for this timeless Sicilian gem. You can book your tour of Taormina on Viator!
We finished our Sicilian exploration by diving in Catania’s history. This seaside city’s historic core endured heavy bombardment during WWII, lending a weather-beaten charm to its baroque streetscapes. Below ground, a once-buried ancient Greek settlement – its ruins blackened by Etna’s volcanic stone – stood as a poignant monument to the layered history of this indomitable place.
As we reluctantly departed Catania’s bustling stazione, I reflected on the raw, passionate energy that coursed through every vignette of our Sicilian journey. From the feisty motorists to the sun-drenched vineyards to the soulful, soil-driven cuisine, Sicily seduced us with its fiery spirit. This beguiling island may be just a toe, but it deserves more than a mere dip into its depths.
Sicilian Antipasti
Thanks for stopping by! Check out our NEW Go See Do Explore Podcast, available wherever you listen to podcasts. To read more about our Italian Adventure, check out our La Dolce Vita Trip Report. To read about some of our previous trips, visit my Trips Page. If you like my photos be sure to “like” my Facebook Page and follow me on Instagram! For my list of gadgets to make your travels easier, click here. To see inside my camera bag, check out my Gear Page.
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