Red Rocks in Colorado
Peering out the window, you watch as the majestic Rocky Mountains give way to the arid deserts of Nevada, and the towering Sierra Nevadas loom on the horizon. The gentle rocking of the train lulls you into a state of tranquility as you take in the ever-changing landscapes. This is the magic of train travel – the opportunity to truly experience the grandeur of America at a pace that allows you to savor every mile.
Amtrak’s legendary California Zephyr route from Chicago to Emeryville (near San Francisco) is an iconic journey that epitomizes the romance of the rails. At over 2,400 miles long and traversing seven states, it’s one of the most scenic train rides in the country. From the craggy cliffs of Colorado’s Glenwood Canyon to the snowy peaks of the Sierra Nevada, this transcontinental odyssey promises endless vistas and a window into the very soul of the American West.
Our adventure started in the bustling metropolis of Chicago (above), where we stayed in the lavishly appointed Allegro Royal Sonesta, near the train station. Before boarding the train, we stopped for lunch at Sarah Grueneburg’s wonderful Monteverde for some of the most fantastic Italian food I have ever had. After lunch, we headed to Union Station where we boarded the distinctive double-decker Superliner train. Having the option to book sleeper accommodations made the prospect of spending multiple nights onboard far more appealing. While the traditional coach seats offer a no-frills experience, the first-class sleeping cars provide a welcome oasis of comfort and privacy.
From cozy roomettes to spacious bedrooms, the sleeper options range from functional to more comfortable. Our quaint roomette may have been compact, but it came equipped with seats that converted into beds, access to a shower, and turndown service each evening. Best of all, meals in the dining car were included – a welcome perk that added to the indulgent experience.
As the miles rolled by, we soon discovered that one of the biggest draws of long-haul train travel is the opportunity to take in vistas that are simply impossible to witness from the air. The California Zephyr’s route is a veritable showcase of America’s natural splendor, from the snow-capped peaks and winding rivers of Colorado to the otherworldly desert landscapes of Nevada.
Spending time in the glass-enclosed Sightseer Lounge observation car, we were transfixed by the passing panoramas. The train’s leisurely pace allowed us to fully appreciate the subtleties of light and shadow playing across the rugged terrain. We watched in awe as the train snaked through narrow mountain passes, canyons, and long tunnels bored through solid rock. This disconnection from the hustle of daily life was not only welcomed but essential to fully embracing the unhurried rhythms of rail travel.
Amtrak’s long-haul routes are a throwback to a more elegant era of travel. Gone are the hassles of airports, the indignities of cramped planes, and the impersonal sterility of it all. In their place is an almost nostalgic experience that encourages you to relish the simple pleasures of the journey itself. Mornings began with a hot breakfast in the dining car, where the gently rocking motion of the train added an extra dimension to the experience. Midday meant whiling away the hours with a good book or enjoying conversations with fellow travelers over lunch as the landscapes rolled by. As evening settled in, we would adjourn to the dining car once more for a leisurely three-course dinner accompanied by a glass of wine. The ambiance was warm and convivial, with strangers quickly becoming friends united by a shared sense of adventure.
California Zephyr with Union Pacific Engine in Emeryville, California
It is important to note that Amtrak is infamous for delays. While we arrived in Denver ahead of schedule, shortly after leaving, one of our engines was out of commission and we sat in Granby, Colorado for several hours while they disconnected it from our train. We were delayed once more when we pulled into Grand Junction and they hooked up a Union Pacific engine to our train to help pull us through the Sierras. All-in-all, we arrived in Emeryville about 3 hours behind schedule, which is not too bad for Amtrak time. If you are planning a journey on Amtrak, patience is key, and give yourself more than enough time to reach your destination.
As our train finally pulled into the Emeryville station, there was a tinge of melancholy at the journey’s end. The California Zephyr had worked its magic, immersing us in the grandeur of the great American landscape while connecting us to the romantic spirit of rail travel’s halcyon days.
Long-haul train journeys aren’t just a way to get from one place to another – they’re an enchanting opportunity to embrace the thrill of the open road from the comfort of rolling accommodations. If unhurried indulgence, spectacular scenery, and a touch of nostalgia are what you crave, then all aboard! The adventure of a lifetime awaits on Amtrak’s transcontinental routes.
Tips for the Long-Haul Traveler
Dever Union Station
While the allure of a multi-day train journey is undeniable, amenities are limited, and a bit of preparation can go a long way toward ensuring your comfort:
- Pack minimally and organize your belongings neatly to avoid clutter in the compact sleeper spaces
- An eye mask and earplugs are essential for quality sleep amid the motion and ambient light
- Bring entertainment like books, magazines, or downloadable content, as WiFi can be spotty
- Have a portable battery pack to keep devices charged, as outlets are limited
- Be sure to get out and stretch your legs frequently by walking the sway-friendly aisles
Most importantly, embrace a mindset of patience and unhurried living. Delays are common due to the freight rail priorities (or as in our case, equipment failures), but rushing defeats the purpose of this relaxing mode of travel. Slow down, savor the experience, and create lasting memories from a bygone era of exploration.
California Zephyr in Glenwood Springs
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From Pena Palace, we took another Bolt to Quinta de Regaleira. We did not pre-purchase tickets to the Quinta, but the line was short by the time we arrived and we were able to use our Lisboa Card for a discount. Quinta de Regaleira is famous for its Initiation Well (left). The Initiation Well is mysterious because it is a circular stairwell into the ground with no known purpose. It is recommended that if you want to walk down the Initiation Well you get there early because a line forms later in the day. We arrived around noon and had to wait a bit but it was worth it.
