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On our recent trip through northern Spain, we based ourselves in Gijón and took a day to see Oviedo, the capital of Asturias. If you’re looking for things to do in Oviedo, here’s how our day went: a scenic train ride, a park that tricked us into thinking we were in Mexico City, a very long lunch, and two free museums.
Gijón vs. Oviedo: Which One Is for You?
Both cities were founded by the Romans, so neither is exactly new. But they have very different personalities. Gijón is more industrial, more functional, and really a beach town at heart. Oviedo is a little bigger, a little older-feeling, and honestly just prettier. Think of it as the posh cousin. We loved having both on one trip, and they’re close enough that you can easily do Oviedo as a day trip.
Getting There: The Train from Gijón
You can take a bus or a train between the two cities. We chose the train. It meant a slightly longer walk to the station, but we like trains, and the ride was quite scenic.
One thing that surprised us: on our earlier Spain trip, we booked all our Renfe tickets in the app. Not this time. This line works more like a commuter train, so you just buy your ticket at the machine when you get to the station. And the Oviedo station itself is pretty cool, so don’t rush out of it.
Campo de San Francisco: Our Mexico City Flashback
We started the day in the Campo de San Francisco, a big green park full of trees right in the middle of the city. It reminded us a lot of Parque España and Parque México in the Condesa neighborhood of Mexico City. If you’ve been there, you’ll know the feeling: shady paths, locals out walking, and a very relaxed pace. It’s a great, easy way to ease into the city.
The Street Market
From the park, we walked to Mercado Alfontan, a street market with an indoor section too. Inside, you’ll find food and cider (of course there’s cider). Outside, there were stalls selling all kinds of things. It’s a fun place to wander and get a feel for everyday life in Oviedo.
Wandering the Old Town and Cathedral
Next, we walked up to the cathedral area, where a maze of narrow, pedestrian-only streets is packed with little shops, gift stores, and restaurants with outdoor seating. Honestly, it felt like a lot of the European old towns we’ve visited: charming, walkable, and a bit touristy in the best way.
We walked around the cathedral but didn’t go in. There was an admission fee and a long line, and with lunch on our minds, we skipped it. If you’re a cathedral person, go early and budget the time.
Lunch on Calle Gascona: Sidrería Heaven
And then it was time to eat. What do you look for in Asturias? A sidrería.
Just off the cathedral area is Calle Gascona, also signed as the Avenida de la Sidra. We counted around 15 sidrerías lined up on this one street. Most offer a menú del día, the fixed-price lunch menu you’ll find all over Spain, which makes choosing easy.
We picked Sidrería Las Güelas and ordered the Asturian menu. Here’s what we got:
- Cider. There was a small extra charge to have it instead of wine. Worth it.
- Fabada. The classic Asturian bean stew with sausage, somewhere between a stew and a soup. It arrived in one big pot for the two of us to share.
- Cachopo. Breaded, stuffed meat, and very good.
- Arroz con leche. A very traditional Asturian rice pudding for dessert.
Here’s our honest take: fabada is a winter food. Locals will tell you nobody eats it in summer, but touristy areas absolutely serve it year-round. We swore we wouldn’t order it in the heat, then did anyway. It’s incredibly filling, and neither of us wanted to waste it, so we ate far more than we should have. In hindsight, we should have ordered the salad. We sat outside and enjoyed every bite, and then we did not want to eat ever again.
Two Free Museums (and a Familiar View)
After lunch, it was siesta time, so we had to kill a little time. The Fine Arts Museum wasn’t open yet, but the Archaeology Museum stayed open through siesta, so we went there first. Both museums were free, and both were pretty good.
At the Fine Arts Museum, we spotted a painting of the mirador we had visited the day before (right). We took a picture of it because we were fairly sure we’d stood in that exact spot. Little moments like that are why we love museums in the places we travel.
From there, we wandered back to the train station and headed back to Gijón.
Thanks for stopping by! Check out our Go See Do Explore Podcast, available wherever you listen to podcasts. To read about some of our previous trips, visit my Trips Page. If you like my photos be sure to “like” my Facebook Page and follow me on Instagram! For my list of gadgets to make your travels easier, click here.